Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. Great with vanilla. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. Evody Fleur dOranger Yardley Royal Diamond. Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour. That translates as having an overripe character. Kim Kardashian Love Kim. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Kenzo Flower by Kenzo You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. Citron. Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. (We do.) E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose So why use tolu at all? 5 Eau Premiere Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. Its seriously low-maintenance: the name rosemary comes from the Latin for dew (ros) and sea (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Frangipani isnt actually the name of a plant, though: its an ingredient from plumeira flowers, which have a gardenia-like scent: soft, peachy, creamy, fruity. Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. Lancme Hypnse Senses WebCalifornia Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act of 2020 (SB 312) In October 2020, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed the California Cosmetic When its first produced, its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point. 5 Diesel Loverdose The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille In India, meanwhile, camphor lends its pungency to cooking. It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. LancmeTrsor In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. In my perfumes, I love it - like a synthetic aldehyde - as it switches the light on, brings out the colours and contrasts. Floris Wedding Bouquet Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). FragonardJust un Baiser (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. Penhaligons Artemisia (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. 9 High Line Goutal le Mimosa Yves Saint Laurent LHomme. Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Diptyque LEau de Tarocco Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Fresh but sophisticated, too. The flowers of the tree are wonderfully nectarous: a magnet for bees (linden honey is particularly delicious). The dahlia fragrances on the market, weve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: its not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumers arsenal, anytime soon. With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). Crabtree & Evelyn Lily The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Thierry Mugler Angel, There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Penhaligons Quercus Revlon Charlie White (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Many a gardeners favourite flower, the sweet pea: obligingly abundant, so long as you keep picking its long stems day after day. Are you a honey-lover? Woods of Windsor Lavender Comme des Garons 8 88 La Prairie Silver Rain Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom Laura Mercier Ambre Passion LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! (Time is money, in perfumery.) And - we suspect is used to give an aura of magic, dark mystery and allure to perfume, rather than for the perfume itself. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. Whoosh! Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables Giorgio Armani Sensi ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. Contrary to legend, aldehydes first made their fragrant debut in 1905 in a scent called Rve D'Or (Golden Dream), by Armingeat. Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. The gourmet food world has just discovered marshmallows, with designer marshmallows becoming available. (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). (It helps to repel insects even though bees love it, on the plant.) Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict Creed Orange Spice Goutal Eau du Ciel Clarins Eau Dynamisante Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic It pairs beautifully with rich flowery notes like jasmine, tuberose and rose. (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) Prada Candy Prada Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though: it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. Jo Malone London Grapefruit Exquisitely exotic, heady, tropical: frangipani is sultry hot nights and sexy, sexy, sexy. Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. The essential oil itself is produced from the fruits skin: you get a hint of how this happens when you tear into a mandarin, and the oil scents your hands. Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) Yes, really: this salty, smoky breakfast food has been used in synthetic form as a novel (very novel) perfume ingredient in John Leydons Fargginay fragrance brand, in a specific bacn collection. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance.". Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. 15 During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Even with the popularity of fruity-floral scents, kumquats still make an appearance on our plates far more often than in our perfume bottles. Herms Terre dHerms Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today its synthetic heliotropin read about it here which perfumers rely on. Paul & Joe Blanc "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. Calvin Klein Eternity Eucalyptus honey. Grs Cabotine The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). Chanel Chance That could be heliotrope, too. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. The price of the natural ingredient probably doesnt help: it takes 500 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of concrete, and about one-tenth that quantity of absolute. 19. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta An all-round useful ingredient, and a dreamily-scented one at that. Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. The first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Dior JAdore Meo FusciuniNotturno. Bacon? Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements in use today. Nasomatto Hindu Grass As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. Honeyed and hay-like are other descriptions that perfumers give to saffron, which works especially well in Ambre-type perfumes. The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. Add a little lemon verbena to a fragrance, and it delivers a brisk, pure, floral-citrus scent, like bruising the fragrant leaves of this shrubby plant between your fingers. Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. Calvin Klein Escape The galbanum plant produces the gum resin asafoetida, used in Indian cooking (as well as perfumery), which you can read about here. (In fact, Hyacinthus ambreis originated in Syria, but its now grown ornamentally all over the world.). Notes of fig leaf and fig fruit can both be used. Pears so crisp and clean a note, you can almost hear it crunch. LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu And the rest, as they say, is history. Marc Jacobs Dot Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. ), Caron Tabac Blond Gucci Envy Me Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. Donna Karan DKNY Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud Herms 24 Faubourg Partly for that reason, there are now quite a few cedar-like synthetic notes used to give depth and a grounding quality across some womens fragrances and many mens. Lavender works well with scents like patchouli, bergamot, rosemary, and orange Thierry Mugler Angel (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Unusually for a perfume ingredient youll quite often see it listed on the back of the carton which your fragrance bottle is packaged in: eugenols use is now restricted in perfumery, as its been known to cause allergies in some people, so it must be mentioned on perfume ingredients lists to alert them. Floris Honey Oud Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Kate Moss Kate 5 Creed Jasmal Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. Dior Hypnotic Poison The fields to produce this beautiful rose near Grasse are limited therefore the quantity available is quite low making it yield a high price.". ChloEau de Parfum Its delectably intoxicating, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary sage and other floral notes. Givenchy Ysatis Maybe thats chameleon-like heliotrope, in the blend A touch of vanilla? Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. There may be a touch of black locust in there. Peach blossoms are much-loved by the Chinese, thought to protect against bad luck and all kinds of evil; its also a symbol of longevity. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). "Amber is a warm, powdery, sweet scent. As May swings round, the Crataegus monogynatree bursts into a froth of sweet-scented blooms, which have long been symbolically linked in the Pagan tradition with fertility and sexual abandonment. Britney Spears Believe It can be a skin sensitiser for some people, and is therefore listed on fragrance packaging so that it can be avoided by those who have a problem. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Chances are, though, that the violet in your own perfume and it probably is in your perfume, even if you cant pick it out is synthetic: the chemists Tiemann & Kruger as long ago as 1893 found a way to separate the aroma compounds in violets, which are known as ionones. Caron Infini Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Tom Ford White Patchouli, Can a fragrance really smell of water? Water and (A little light sanding re-releases the scent, if it fades.). It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming Britney Spears Fantasy ChloLEau deChlo Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Preceding the berries come green-and-purple-tinged bell-shaped flowers which do offer up a delicate scent but the sweet, subtly floral belladonna note used in fragrances is generally synthetic. Davidoff Cool Water Woman Prada Infusion dIris The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. Coke, fries andburger thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, and White, purple, or. Which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere flowers, depending on the variety that carrying ball! Hear it crunch, kumquats still make an appearance on our cashmere, and nutty... Here, you can almost hear it crunch, as they say, is history there be... 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